A few pictures from "winter service".
The new undertray
glassfiber and somewhat lighter than the previous one. Most
importantly, the new led back
& brake light
is E-approved and pretty compact unit. Also
the rear blinkers carry E-mark. The rear hugger got black color
has been moved 2 centimeters upwards to allow better space for higher
ratio rear wheel. Nicky mod
(in the middle photo) allows to inspect and even change the front
sprocket without hassle with the clutch main cylinder. Carbon fiber "shark" protector
front of the rear sprocket.
A few pictures from track activities with friends during 2006.
Video : Jurvailua
This bike seems to require only driving ! About 4000 kms so far and
about 500 kms of those on track. Here are some pics from Ahvenisto,
Do-it-yourself quick turn
. Thickness of the yellow plastic
2 mm, width 7 mm, inner diameter 34 mm. Ramps for the cable filed down
into both ends of the plastic. This increases the diameter of the
throttle cam (white in the pics) and speeds up the throttle response.
The initial throttle "bite" remains as in original because of the ramp
formed into the plastic. Original cables are ok and maximum thickness
of the plastic could be up to about 2.5 mm. Original on-off rotation
from about 90 degrees is reduced down to < 70 degrees. The yellow
plastic part can be slipped into the place under the cables without
removing the throttle handle from the bike; only the top cap of the
throttle cam enclosure needs to be opened. The cables push the plastic
onto the cam and it does not need to be clued, screwed or anything else
because the ends of the plastic are in firm contact with the cable
holder module protruding out of the cam itself (see rightmost picture).
promised NF Racing. I also acquired a new
pressure plate bearing, which proved to be a standard bearing
manufactured by NTN (type 16003CS08) and obtainable from local bearing
shop. The bearing dropped easily into the pressure plate after heating
the pressure plate up to + 100 C degrees and cooling the bearing down
to around 0 C degrees. I checked for free rotation of the bearing after
cooling down and it spins like a champ.
In the above pics the JTR clutch is the one having darker greenish look
(due to hard anodization ?) and the HRC original is the one with the
shiny aluminum color. The only slight problem in the clutch change was
the fact that the center nut requires a 30 mm 12-corner socket wrench.
A normal 6-corner socket will not do here. Kari kindly provided me one
and that solved the problem.
The JTR parts seem to be of very high quality and surface finish. All
dimensions were accurate and the fitting with the old clutch basket and
on the axis was spot on. For example, the washers on the top of the
clutch springs are machined aluminum parts and not plain steel washers
like in the original clutch. The JTR parts seem to be also somewhat
lighter than the originals. I would say that in general the JTR clutch
appears to have higher quality and finish than the Honda original one !
These are billet aluminum parts machined very professionally.
I made the following simple tool from iron plate to hold the clutch
center in place when removing and attaching the center nut. The
bar of the tool rests on the right side rearset making it a simple task
to open or tighten the nut. Without this kind of tool it might we
rather problematic to work on the nut without damaging the clutch
Well, how it works in riding ? After a short test ride the first
experience is as follows : Clutch seems to have a slightly softer
initial bite than the original for some reason even if I have
reused the orginal clutch plates, which were not even close to the wear
limit. This makes the clutch slightly nicer to use in starts. The power
required to pull clutch the lever has remained as with the original.
The lever needs to be now pulled maybe slightly deeper for the clutch
to release compared to original. In relaxed riding the clutch behaves
pretty much in similar manner than the original. Then, when pushing a
little harder and downshifting with higher rpm without throttle, the
slipper does exactly what it is designed to do: Gears slip right in
without any violent feeling and the rear wheel stays in line without
hopping around. The overall feeling in downshifting could be described
as "increased smoothness". You do not really feel the clutch slipping
but it clearly softens out the engine braking. Second gear can be
pushed in at 100-120 km/h and clutch can be released in one go having
throttle completely closed and it does not feel bad at all. RPM shoots
up for a while but the rear of the bike does not do any extra moves
I am eagerly waiting for the first track ride to really enjoy the new
Further transportation problem solving taking place before riding
season: Stema, a german
made trailer for 2 bikes, total max. weight 750 kg. Also, a car
towing hook is on it's way (small but brisk turbodiesel with 90 hp, 190
climate control and MP3 player with 6 speakers). The idea is to use
this combination for longer track trips instead of riding the
bike back and forward. Driving a car after a hot day in the track seems
to be much safer than riding the bike for 300 kms and trying to obey
the speed limits.
Then, maybe a little 12 V air compressor to adjust tyre pressures, a 12
V cooler pack to keep drinks cold and of course a 12 V coffee maker.
Not to forget a power converter to supply the laptop so that
Powercommander maps can be updated in the field.
But speaking about track driving, I really don't need this, but decided
get it anyway : JTR slipper clutch
Nordic reseller is NF Racing
in Sweden. Some installation instructions can be found here
and a few installation pics here
The installation by Greyhound in US in those pics was not succesfull
because the clutch center was by mistake for a different type of Honda,
but the pics give a good idea what needs to be done. Hopefully my
clutch will come with proper parts. I promise that this is the last new
add-on part that I will get for the SP. No more costly mods after this
Bought BagsConnection Racepack
solve transportation problems. It sits perfectly on the SP1 tail.
Service has now been more or less completed. Nothing more to be done
before the driving seasons starts. Some new pics below showing current
Work done during winter 2006 (at 22800
- white led illumination for
- 520 chain conversion with new
- new rear brake pads (Honda original)
- rear and front brake fluid and clutch fluid changed
- valve clearances checked
- new iridium spark plugs
- motor oil and filter changed
- air filters changed
- cooling liquid changed
- PAIR mod
- all flapper valve items removed
- new mirrors with blinkers
- electronic flasher unit
- new fully adjustable clip-ons
- new adjustable clutch and brake
- new front fairing bracket
- rear footrests removed + new
silencer can holders
- frame sliders installed
- new fully adjustable rearsets
- rim tapes, side panel labels
- exhaust cans installed with self-made wire-mesh dB-killers
- top yoke cosmetic fix
Added some nice Constructors
parts to further decorate the pilot's working
environment :) Well, in addition to looking rather good, those CRG levers
are also highly
functional. Further, preload
added to allow front work adjustment without
tools. Yes, and the top aluminum surface of the top yoke was renewed by
milling 0.2 mm material off with a Bridgeport mill in a single pass
using a 100 mm diameter bit. After that the fresh machined aluminum
surface was recoated with generous apply of clear coat. I also wanted
to get rid of those passanger pegs and manufactured somewhat
cleaner look exhaust can holders
using 8 mm thick aluminum.
I checked the valve clearances and those were all nicely within factory
specs (after 24000 km). Honda (HRC) quality seems to be ok. Cam
surfaces and cam wheels together with all other components under those
MAGNESIUM (!) made valve covers appeared as good as new. In order to
better access the front cylinder head I removed the right hand side
radiator. The manual says that front cylinder head can be serviced
without removing the radiator, but this might apply only to clever
japanese technicians with very flexible backbone and very tiny hands.
New air filters went in.
Frame sliders and 520 chain & sprockets installed. All
"unnecessary" PAIR and Flapper Valve items removed.
Driving season has ended and therefore it is time to start the mods
season. To start with I decided to first do some stuff in the cockpit.
See below a new self made bracket
to support the front fairing and mirrors.
This bracket is made
by bending 10 mm aluminum rod and it is supported via a bearing in an
aluminum holder from the steering axle. The hollow steering axle holds
inside a short sleeve that is expanded using an inner cone type bolt to
get a tight hold of the sleeve inside the axle. This is kind of the old
school's way of supporting the bracket. Looks very technical if nothing
I have also turned the Öhlins steering damper other way round
compared to the original set up, which looks to me kind of funny
because the damper unit would be inclined compared to the top yoke. In
this setup it is parallel to the yoke and clip-ons and at least to me
it looks better this way.
The above figs also show the new clip-ons
made by Gilles Tooling
. These are really high quality units and fully
From the rightmost figure you can see that I wanted to somewhat
reduce the down angle of the clip-ons to make them better suited to my
personal ergonomy (in the righmost fig the rightside clip-on is still
original, the left-one is the new adjustable version).
Here are the new Speedzilla front mirrors with
those intergrated turn signals. I needed to replace the original
blinker relay with an electronic relay unit to make the blinker
frequency completely independent from the electric load of
bulbs/leds. Some people seem to add some extra resistors to compensate
for the smaller currents when using leds, but the electronic relay is
really much simpler way to go. At Motonet, the cost of the relay unit
was 5.90 EUR (Elektr vilkkurele 2-napainen, osa nro 48-1894).
I have now experimented a little with the Accelerator Pump
. It does make a clear difference, but noticed also that
when driving on the track it is wise to select a little less
"aggressive" settings, otherwise taking the turns can become rather
challenging due to the very sharp throttle response.
Bought some new stuff for the winter : 15/41 sprockets and 520 chain, frame
sliders, smog block off plates and Sato rearsets
. Could not wait
but needed to put those rearsets immediately on the bike. They are very
well manufactured parts indeed !
Driving season is approaching the end. Maybe one or two weeks still to
go. Here are some autumn pics taken near my house. Looking these helps
to survive the winter.
installed and the 1st map is a slightly modified
Yoshimura EMS map. Immediately noticeable is that bike came much
smoother in the low rpm end. Town driving is possible from 2500 rpm up.
Next thing is to throw in some other maps for comparison and also test
the free Accelerator Pump software
Already now it is however very
evident that the PowerCommander is a really good mod eliminating the
snatchy throttle response.
From the very beginning I have NOT liked the front blinkers,
which are HUGE and look very old-fashioned. In the above pics you can
see my mod where I assembled miniature
into the original
holes of the blinker arms. By lucky accident I noticed that the very
bright led blinkers from Motorcyclestuff
(catalog part nbrs 1002575 & 1000033, see catalog page 6.43) fit
perfectly into the original holes. A simple aluminum holder keeps them
nicely in place. The bike looks now much cleaner. New front mirrors
intergrated turn signals are also on their way from Speedzilla
are needed to make the turn signals clearly visible when observed
directly from the fromt of the bike.
I also removed the VTR Racing
labels from the side panels,
because personally I think that they make the bike look like a teenager.
Just noticed that Yoshimura provides their own EMS system for this
bike. The software and maps can be found from here
. I used the EMS
software to open up those Yoshimura maps. After that, it is simple to
key in the Yoshimura maps into PowerCommander USB softaware. Actually,
before testing on bike, I like the look of the Yosh maps somehow better
than those PC maps I have gone through.
Bike runs very well even without the PowerCommander. I have made
about 2500 kms with it without any trouble or problem whatsoever.
is already on its way. What occupies now my mind is that all
the maps that are provided
by Dynojet/PowerCommander for SP1 seem to have very significant
negative trim values in them.Why is that ? I always thought that in
most bikes the
stock map needs typically some richening to soft down the coarse engine
especially in the low rpms. Seems that the
Honda PAIR system injecting air to the exhaust system is the reason for
overly rich mixtures. In order to burn in the exhaust properly
the exhaust gases need to contain CO and HC instead of CO2 and NOx.
I will install my wideband lambda probe ( Tech
: 0 258 007 057 LSU
+ 2C0 unit
+ LD02 display
) into the
during next winter providing
realtime AFR readout. However, the PAIR system needs to go before any
reasonable measurements can be made. Also, I need check/remove any air
leaks in the
exhaust system to ensure correct readings.
Another interesting thing is that the removal of the flapper valve
system seems not to cause any special need to add the fuel injection in
7000-8000 rpm area, even if the valve could restrict the air flow
cross-section maximally 60 %.
In an effort to try to find some common trends in various maps
developed by various persons for a RC51/SP1 2000-2001, I calculated an
based on 28 individual maps. These maps were selected among those
downloadable from the Dynojet site (i.e. from Maps
available for PCIIIr/ III USB
& User Submitted
). I selected such maps where the rpm
and throttle breakpoints were similar so the map cells "coincide". The
maps contain maps both for
US and European models and of course for a variety of exhaust and inlet
The average map is here
(right click to save and if necessary, change the file identifier back
Just acquired a Honda VTR SP1 year model 2001 (19000 kms) to replace
the old and soulfull Moto Guzzi Sport Corsa. This bike was reasonably
modified by the
previous owners: Yoshimura RS3
slip-ons, rear wheel hugger, undertray
lights, double bubble plex, steel braided Goodrich brake lines,
shock with hydraulic pre-tension adjustment, Öhlins steering
damper, Öhlins racing valves, springs &
oil inside the original Showa front forks.
Very good, I don't
expensive components :)
The engine is so far stock except that I already made the flapper valve
removing the intake air restrictions. The front forks went
Racing, Hyvinkää) to get rid of oil leak, which seemingly was
due to the use of
Öhlins racing type synthetic oil. Now the forks hold Öhlins
Race & Track mineral based oil and do not leak and work very
Here is one test
giving impressions what this bike is like..
For the history, my old Guzzi modication pages : ECU